lamps throw out a lot more light than the Triumph's original tungsten
filament headlamps. This article is specific for the TR2-3B but
can easily be adapted to outer Triumphs.
Converting to same wattage Halogen lamps
Converting to Halogen headlamps with the same high and low beam
power ratting (Watts) is very easy. It is simply a matter of removing
your old tungsten filament headlamps, installing new halogen headlamps,
and plugging the headlamp connectors back in. You will get a very
noticeable increase of light to drive by. Since you are not changing
the power that your stock wiring harness caries you do not need
to modify it. However to get the best light out of your new headlamps
it would be a good time to check over your headlamp
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Converting to higher wattage halogen headlamps
High power halogen lamps exceed the power handling capabilities
of a stock TR3 wire harness and can cause damage to the harness
and switches. You should rewire part of your headlamp harness
and add a relay if you are planning to install high power halogen
High power halogen headlamps are normally labeled as high power
on the box (if in doubt ask your sales person). The high power
lamps usually have a low beam similar in power to the standard
power halogen and tungsten filament lamps. The high power is usually
reserved for the high beams. To safely use this kind of headlamp
you need to put a relay in the high beam circuit to handle the
additional power draw. You would leave the low beam circuit alone
in this application.
There are some special high power lamps that are available that
have high output on both high and low beams. This would require
a relay on both the high beam circuit and the low beam circuit.
I recommend against getting these lamps. You do not want to blind
oncoming traffic when they are hurling their cars in your direction.
You will need to go out and purchase a relay if one did not come
with the headlamps. Lucas makes a relay that is a rectangular
metal can that works very well for this application. There is
often a diagram of the relay's electrical connections etched on
the side to tell you how to wire the relay.
Mount the relay on the upper kick panel or inside bulkhead above
and near the foot dimmer switch.
You can get your electricity from the amp meter on the side that
has the brown wire with a white stripe. Or you can get it directly
from the battery or a fuse box connection with a solid brown wire.
You will want to connect a line fuse between where you pick up
the electricity and the relay. The wire between the amp meter
and the fuse should be brown with white stripe. If you are taking
it from the battery it should be solid brown. The colour of the
insulation between the fuse and relay should be solid blue. Depending
upon what kind of wire measuring system you are using the wires
should be #12 AWG, or 44 strand.
The stock wire harness has two blue with white stripe wires going
from the foot switch to the bright beams of the headlamps.
You will use the foot switch to activate the relay and provide
power to the high powered headlamps.
Looking at your relay there should be four connectors. They may
have labels like S1, S2, R1, R2 or there may be a picture etched
with corresponding connector designations. The connectors labeled
S1 & S2 or shown on the diagram as a coil are the low power
connections to the internal solenoid that activates the high power
Place a black wire on one of the S connectors and route it to
a good body ground. The other S terminal gets connected to the
high beam connection on the dimmer foot switch. It doesn't matter
which of the S or solenoid terminals is which. This circuit now
uses the dimmer foot switch to actuate the relay.
Now, the brown wire to line fuse to blue wire goes to one of
the R or relay contact terminals. Once again it doesn't matter
which. Finally connect the two 44 strand (#12 AWG) blue with white
stripe wires that were attached to the dimmer switch to the other
R terminal of the relay.
And that is all there is to it. If I ever go to high power high
beam headlamps that is how I would wire the connections.
The fuse size depends upon the power your high beam draws so
there is no firm number that I can provide. Since you have two
high beam lamps divide two times the wattage of the high beam
by 12 then add 25% as a fudge factor. Choose a fuse that is the
closest higher current rating.
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Dim headlamps are often caused by oxidized or loose harness wiring.
Connections will oxidize over time creating increased resistance.
This will make your headlamps dimmer. So when you replace your
headlamps it is a good idea to clean your wire connections and
make sure that the headlamp harness is in good condition.
The connectors that plug into the back of your headlamps are
each part of a small three wire sub harness. If this sub harness
has degraded new ones are readily available.
The black wire will go to a body ground connection just behind
the front valance on each side. Make sure that all the connections
are clean, including the connection between the ground connector
and the metal of the bulkhead. A bad or high resistance ground
connection is the most common cause of very dim headlamps. New
Lucas ground connectors are readily available.
The blue/white and blue/red wires each go to connectors near
the front valance. Check to make sure that the bullet connectors
and the inside metal of the connectors are clean.
Check the rubber gaskets where the wires pass through the headlamp
bucket. Replace with new ones if the originals have deteriorated
or are missing. These gaskets protect the insulation from abrasions
that can cause shorts in your headlamp wiring.
Check the connections to your hi-lo dimmer foot switch. It is
probably a good idea to remove the foot switch, clean up the area
and the connections. Make sure that the insulators around the
connections are in place and in good condition to prevent shorts.
Open your instrument panel and check the connections to your
headlamp switch. The wire going to the foot switch is the blue
one. Once again you want a clean firm connection.
This should provide you with bright headlamps. Don't forget to
clean the head lamp lenses whenever you clean the windscreen.
Dirt over the lenses can block out a lot of light and cause the
headlamps to run warmer.
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