Racing with lightened connecting rods
The late Mike Belfer recommended no more than two racing seasons
on lightened production rods. He also shotpeened [stress relieved]
the oil hole. He told me this after my lightened rods without
stressed relieved or filled oil holes let go in Corner Five at
Since then I have used Corrello rods without incident. That includes
many racing miles [shift point 6000] and occasional excursions
Interesting thing about the oil hole in the rod. In days past
when we had found that the oil hole indeed was the problem and
could not use alternate rods, we would pull down the rod from
the crank, spray acetone on the rod around the oil hole to clean
it then spray on the crack detect stuff and do a crack check with
the ultra violet light. It saved pulling the entire engine down
all the time . It saved a lot of engines for us.
Kas, that's an interesting approach. I think your 'little black'
book suggested magnafluxing the rods after every 4 races. Since
the cranks were also weak, I thought it was a good idea to pull
everything apart after every 4 races and check the rods and crank.
As long as I followed this routine, I never had a problem. The
one time I didn't, sure enough, I ended up with a gaping hole
right above the starter! I raced the car for 8 years before they
let us use Carillo rods. During that time, I only had the one
rod failure - so your formula must have been correct. Thanks!
> I am trying to order new rod bolts for my TR-4 from ARP fastners
> they asked me if they were the same as TR-6,s or TR-7,s or
gt-6,s .They no
> listing for TR-3,s or TR-4,s . Can anyone help out on this ?
I bought some from ARP a few years ago. They were ARP Part #
200-6021. They are 7/16 x 1.8 12pt rod bolts 2P. You need 4 sets.
Back in March 2000 they totaled $40.18 with shipping. They looked
them up by the dimension, and that is what worked out. I think
Return to the top of the page