Triumph TR3 drawing


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Triumph TR3 FAQ page

Distributor problems & tricks related to cap, rotor, points & condensers
(Discussions of distributors themselves)

(Dated 10/06)
I have recently experienced a number of distributor rotor button failures in my TR6 causing frustrating DNF ie I have been "beaten by equipment" I purchased a number of the basic tune up kits from the Roadster Factory for my TR6 which include points, condensor and rotor button. I have had a number of problems with the rotor button failing due to it shorting through the plastic to the shaft . The problem relates to the small steel spring plate inside the rotor button which holds the button tight on the shaft. The plastic is very thin where this piece of steel is clipped into the plastic . Not sure if these buttons just will not take constant high revs In examining an original Lucas rotor button the plastic is much thicker at this point.

From comments by others it seems to be common problem and I wonder If you guys in the States are having the same problem and if so whats the fix??  My last two buttons have only lasted minutes of running at high revs .  Is there a source of original design Lucas buttons.   Our Regs do not allow us to run non standard Dissies or I'd throw the Lucas stuff out!!

Geoff Byrne
Sydney Australia

Yes, we have that problem with TR4's and TR6's, both race cars and low-revving street cars. The only successful fix I have found is to use the rotors that come in a box labelled OEM, an abbreviation for Original Engine Maintenance, and sold over here by World Wide Auto Parts. The rotors appear to be made in Italy. Their website is

Talk to the owner, Peter.

Jack W. Drews


I too struggled with this issue. After some careful observations, I noticed that new out-of-the-box button rotors actually were loose where the pin held the brass arm to the plastic. The next time that I ordered rotors, I bought six of them and found that 50% were already loose. I ran the good ones in my TR6 race car and had no failures. It became regular maintenance from that point on to change the rotor before my feature race and to carry a spare in my race suit pocket! I also purchased different brands (Napa, Moss, Victoria British, Lucas, etc. and found that they were all identical in construction (the Lucas brand cost twice as much) and equally faulty. Same source I assume. Jack Drews suggestion to contact World Wide Auto Parts is a good one. Their rotors are made more like the original Lucas brand. Others that I have talked with about this issue have epoxied the brass to the plastic with good success.

Good luck,

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