Setting up a differential without the pinion depth tools

> I pretty much faked the differential set up, and I think it came
> out okay. I have .006 lash, and the pinion mark looks reasonably close to
> the middle of the tooth, on both drive and overrun. I'm calling it good. I
> need a new seal though. It doesn't look like something I can get at a
> bearing shop. Wonder how fast I can get one from Moss.
> I didn't dare trust any of the bearings, and I didn't have any new ones, but
> I had a lot of used ones. They look good, I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Bill,
The seal should be a National 47048-N. It is 1.5" x 2.686" x .5". It has always worked for the TR6's and I just looked at a TR4 axle I have and it appears to be the same. The side bearings are Timken 16150 cone and 16283 cup. The rear pinion bearing is 3188 cone and 3120 cup. The front pinion bearing is 15100SR cone and 15245 cup. For the TR4A & TR6 the stub shaft bearings are Bower LS11.

Greg Lund

Bill I was a ford tech in the 70's I cant remember how many diffs I set up. Without the pinion depth tools the easiest way to set it up is to install the pinion with the same shims that are in the broken diff. the trick is pressing the pinion bearing off without damaging it. install carrier set backlash to .006-.008" apply bluing or even a grease. rotate pinion in forward direction while holding pressure against ring gear. this gives you the contact area of the teeth. ideally it should be in the center of the teeth on the ring gear. The heal of the tooth is the inside the toe is the outside. if it has toe contact add pinion shim reset backlash and recheck. exact center contact is not critical sometimes not even possible. close will work. I used this technique when I switched from a 4.55-1 to a 4.10-1 and got lucky old shims were perfect. call me if you have any question

.Jeff

Return to the page top